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Exfoliation is the removal of dead skin cells from the upper layer of the skin and may be performed by exfoliants in skincare or by physical treatments. Buffing away dead skin cells helps to reveal healthy skin cells, giving the skin a more radiant glow and smoothness. Chemical exfoliants found in skincare typically consist of alpha and beta hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, mandelic, citric, lactic and salicylic acid. 

Benefits of exfoliation

• The removal of dead skin cells leading to a healthier glow and smoother complexion.
• Increases skin cell turnover, resulting in a firmer, healthier skin barrier.
• Allows greater penetration of other skincare products.
• Improves skin circulation, leading to better functioning of the skin.

Top Tips

• Choose a suitable exfoliant for your skin type.
• Sensitive skins should only use gentle exfoliants.
• Oily skin may need a more aggressive exfoliant.
• Darker skin types should use exfoliation cautiously, it may lead to pigmentation problems.
• Look at your existing skincare products – you may already have an exfoliant in these!
• The skin may be more sensitive to exfoliation if you are using a retinol product.
• Do not over-exfoliate, this can damage the skin and may cause wrinkles to appear.
• Always apply a moisturiser after exfoliating.
• Choose a routine that works for you!

Enzymes in skincare can also be used for exfoliation, but without increasing skin cell turnover.

Dr Martyn King,

Cosmedic

Exfoliation for different skin types

Dry Skin

Although exfoliation is important for dry skin to help remove dead skin cells and flaking, mechanical methods may be damaging to the skin and only mild exfoliating sponges should be used. It is better to use chemical methods, such as glycolic acid, for dry skin types. Make sure to use moisturiser afterwards.

Oily Skin

Oily skin types often have a built-up residue on the surface and physical exfoliation is usually the preferred method to remove this, which may also be followed up by a skincare product containing an alpha or beta hydroxy acid. Using a cleanser tailored to oily skin types before buffing will also help remove any oils on the skin.

Sensitive Skin

It is often recommended to avoid physical exfoliation and to only consider gentle skincare products, otherwise the skin is likely to become reddened and sore. For acne sufferers with sensitive skin, using salicylic acid will have a dual benefit.

Normal Skin

All methods of exfoliation are suitable and the regime that is used is down to personal preference. Normal skin types are often suited to a daily skincare product, followed by a weekly physical exfoliation that may include the face and body.

You can exfoliate at home using an exfoliating mitt or brush, scrub all over whilst in the shower, avoiding any areas of sensitive or damaged skin and do not scrub too hard! Use an exfoliating product for best results, these are often creams that feel a bitty gritty to the touch. Make sure to apply a moisturiser afterwards.

Tina Jobburns
Cosmedic

Common exfoliants found in skincare

Glycolic Acid

An Alpha Hydroxy Acid, glycolic is derived from sugarcane and has the ability to deeply penetrate the skins layers and aid the production of new collagen for cellular turnover. Glycolic acid helps build the structure of the skin’s fibroblasts which reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It is important when using glycolic acid to remember to protect the skin with sunscreen. 

Mandelic Acid

Mandelic is an AHA derived from almond and best suited to problematic skin types, such as oily and shiny. It has antibacterial properties, making mandelic acid a solution for acne-prone skin types to deeply cleanse impurities from the pores and mop away excess oils.

Lactic Acid

Lactic acid is an AHA which is derived from milk, but can also be made synthetically . Lactic helps to keep the skin soft and supple as well as providing a gentle exfoliation by eating away at the dead skin cells from the surface of the skin.

Citric Acid

Citric acid is an AHA and derived from several different citrus fruits and is often used to help reduce the appearance of photo-damage and improve the structure of the skin’s formation. Although primarily an AHA, certain formulations of citric acid are actually classified as a BHA and more suitable for unclogging pores and reducing sebum production.

Salicylic Acid

A BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid) derived from willow bark and known for being a derivative of aspirin. It increases the shedding of the dead skin cells in conditions such as acne and other pore clogging skin conditions. Most commonly used for the treatment of acne skin as it breaks the sticky bond that causes unsightly breakouts and excessive oil.

Our Recommendations

A highly effective foaming cleansing gel that uses dual acids to improve the clarity of the skin and remove the build up of dead skin cells. This cleanser contains 8% glycolic acid and improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. 

Containing salicylic, citric, mandelic and tartaric acid, as well as pro-Vitamin A, it exfoliated dead skin cells and unclogs pores.

Environ’s Sebu-Lac Lotion is a non-oily formulation containing a combination of lactic acid and skin moisturisers for a problemed skin type.

This cleanser combines the potent acids, salicylic and glycolic, to exfoliate and smooth the appearance of skin prone to breakouts and premature ageing.

NeoStrata’s Mandelic Clarifying Cleanser is a deeply exfoliating mandelic cleanser ,perfect for oily and breakout prone skin types. 

View all of our exfoliating products

Exfoliating treatments

Read our articles about exfoliants