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Vitamin C

Vitamin C

Also known as ascorbic acid, Vitamin C is a simple low-molecular weight carbohydrate. It is essential for the body as a water-soluble vitamin and carries out several vital functions such as protecting cells and keeping them healthy, maintaining healthy bones, cartilage and skin, and helping to heal wounds. Vitamin C occurs naturally in a very wide variety of fruits and vegetables, however citrus fruits are known to be one of the biggest contributors to vitamin C in an average person’s diet. For cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, however, it is manufactured via a two-step fermentation process of glucose.

Adults need 40mg of vitamin C per day, which is typically obtained from your diet, since your body cannot synthesise it. Normal skin needs a high concentration to stay healthy and sometimes there’s just not enough from your diet going straight to the skin, which is why topical products containing vitamin C can be a useful tool for reaping the benefits.

Benefits of Vitamin C

Vitamin C can help the formation of the skin barrier by stimulating collagen synthesis and promoting the production of dermal cells such as fibroblasts. A well-maintained skin barrier helps protect your skin from external damage and helps your skin retain water.

In skincare, Vitamin C is widely regarded for its antioxidant properties which help counteract skin oxidation, which is a major contributing factor to photoageing. Additionally, these properties reduce the action of free radicals created by the Sun’s radiation, which may also damage the skin and therefore helps to prevent premature ageing.

It is also known to block the action of an enzyme called tyrosinase. This enzyme is essential for the synthesis of the pigment melanin, so applying vitamin C to the skin slowly fades deposits of hyperpigmentation and hence reduces the appearance of blotches. It is worth noting that this does not affect normal skin colouration and applying Vitamin C will not fade normal dark skin pigmentation and will instead only affect abnormal melanin deposits associated with sun damage.

What are the benefits of Vitamin C in skincare?

  • Antioxidant
  • Anti-inflammatory
  • Anti-pigmentation
  • Hydrates the skin
  • Brightens complexion
  • Reduces redness
  • Reduce hyperpigmentation

Dr Martyn King,

Cosmedic

Top Tips

Apply sun cream when using vitamin C products, especially in summer months, for maximum protection of delicate skin cells against the DNA-damaging free radicals.

If you have oily or normal skin, you should use L-ascorbic acid as this is the most potent and potentially the most beneficial.

For dry or sensitive skin, ideally use magnesium ascorbyl phosphate which is known to cause less irritation. If you experience any irritation from using a topical vitamin C product, then moisturise and opt for a lower concentration.

Take note of the pH levels: For normal skin, try a lower pH (of approximately 3.5) for optimal absorption. For sensitive skin, try a pH between 5 and 6; this is closer to the skin’s natural pH and so may be less irritating.

Vitamin C is said to work well in combination with vitamin E and ferulic acid since both chemicals are also antioxidations and may boost its effectiveness in eliminating free radicals and stimulating collagen production.

You should always store vitamin C products in cool, dark conditions, particularly those containing water-soluble vitamin C, because it can be unstable in the presence of light causing the vitamin C to oxidise. Many serums are contained in darker bottles to prevent oxidation.

The colour of Vitamin C serums may darken over time due to oxidation.

Charlotte Loveland

Cosmedic

Our Recommendations

Containing pure Vitamin C and Vitamin E as well as ferulic acid, this is one of the best antioxidant serums on the market.

AVST 3 contains Vitamin A and 7 different antioxidants to help repair and restore collagen, prevent free radical damage and helps with pigmentation.

This super powerful antioxidant serum contains Vitamin C and a blend of botanical antioxidants for anti-ageing, brightening and protecting the skin.

NeoStrata’s SynerG 8.0 formula contains 8 powerful, multi-action antioxidants to help preserve DNA, cell membranes and the skin matrix.

ANP Skin Antioxidant is formulated with plant nutrients and antioxidant botanicals including bilberry, turmeric, green tea and grape seed extracts.

View all of our Vitamin C products

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  • OBAGI - C Rx System C-Balancing Toner
  • Obagi Nu-Derm Clear Fx
  • Obagi Professional-C 10% Serum
  • OBAGI Professional-C 15% Serum
  • OBAGI Professional-C 20% Serum
  • Obagi-C Exfoliating Day Lotion
  • SkinCeuticals AOX+ Eye Gel
  • SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic 30ml
  • SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF 30ml & a FREE SkinCeuticals Hydrating B5 15ml

Read our articles about Vitamin C

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