Cleansers
All things cleansing!
All things cleansing! Different skin types need different cleansers, if you’re not sure, speak to one of our skincare experts. Charlotte Loveland, Cosmedic Since there
June 28, 2022
Retinol
RETINOIDS EXPLAINED
Retinoids are derivatives of vitamin A that have been shown to be beneficial in helping manage acne and signs of ageing. Vitamin A was the first vitamin approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) as an anti-wrinkle agent that can change the tone and clarity of the skin. Retinol can be purchased over the counter in doses of up to 2%, whereas stronger retinoids may require a prescription.
Retinoids are very different to other products that can be used on mature-looking skin concerns, as it does not remove dead skin cells, but instead helps to speed up the cell turnover, and prevents the breakdown of collagen. The small molecules that make up the retinoid product can penetrate the epidermis (outer layer of skin) and into the dermis (the middle layer of skin). Once in this layer of skin, the retinoid helps to neutralise free radicals, boosts the production of elastin and collagen, and creates a ‘plumping effect’, which can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
It is important that prior to using retinoids, the potential risk of side effects are understood.
The Retinol Pathway
Retinol
Retinol is mainly used to treat mature-looking skin concerns, such as fine lines, wrinkles enlarged pores and mild acne. It will typically be used as a topical treatment in serums, gels, creams, or emollients.
Retinyl Palmitate
A less aggressive form of retinol and found to be better tolerated for those with more sensitive skin types who may find retinyl palmitate to be less irritating to the skin. Benefits of retinyl palmitate are helping the thickening of the epidermis, slowing the speed of premature ageing and keeping pores unclogged due to increased cell turnover.
Retinaldehyde
A deep, pore cleansing retinoid that promotes skin cell turnover and can slow down the formation of lines and wrinkles. Retinaldehyde may appear as retinal on labels as it is a vitamin A derivative. A powerful exfoliator without being prescription strength.
Beta-Carotene
An unofficial Vitamin A, however, the body will naturally convert beta-carotene to Vitamin A when the body needs it. It is a red/orange pigment that can be found in plants and fruits.
Retinyl Acetate
A natural form of vitamin A and an acetate - a fatty acid ester of retinol. Retinyl acetate induces cell differentiation and decreases cell proliferation by binding retinoid receptors. It is commonly found in product formulations as it more stable than retinol and retinoic acid, making retinyl acetate more favourable for skincare products.
Tretinoin
A prescription strength topical cream that works by stimulating the skin and speeding up the life cycle of the skin cells, revealing, new, healthier cells. It is a much stronger, synthetic version of vitamin A, that, due to its strength is not suitable for sensitive skin. With any high strength topical cream, there are some side effects to using this, including photosensitivity to the sun, extreme dryness of the skin and persistent irritation of the skin, however it is highly effective in the treatment of acne.
The Benefits of Retinoids
IMPROVES APPEARANCE
Retinoids, especially retinol, can improve the appearance of uneven skin tone, skin texture, clarity and brightness of the skin. This is due to the effect it has on cell turnover and collagen production. Retinol serums at concentrations of 0.3% and 0.5% have been shown to decrease the appearance of hyperpigmentation and unevenness in the skin. Although, the strength of the retinol can see an improvement in this, the side effects must be considered, and therefore it is always recommended that retinoids and retinol are started at a much smaller concentration, and built upon over time, to minimise all irritation and dryness that may occur.
ANTI-AGEING
Skin ageing is a natural part of getting older, as our epidermal layer of the skin holds less water, and we begin to lose collagen and the elasticity in the skin. This can result in fine lines, wrinkles and sagging of the skin. Retinol can help to protect against the breakdown of collagen, while stimulating cell turnover and collagen production in the skin.
Retinols also strengthens the epidermis and reduces the amount of water that evaporates from the skin. This can result in the skin looking plumper, reducing and slowing down the signs of skin ageing. Topical retinols at a strength of 0.4% and above can increase epidermal thickness, improve blood flow and increase collagen, and this effect can happen in as little as 8 weeks.
REDUCES ACNE
Acne is a common skin condition, which can be caused by dead skin cells and oils from the skin’s glands, blocking the follicles in the skin. It can also be caused by bacteria entering these blocked pores causing inflammation, which can cause blackheads, whiteheads, pimples and cysts.
Topical retinoids, such as retinol, can reduce skin peeling that blocks pores, unclog pores and reduce inflammation. Topical retinoids have been found to effectively and safely reduce and treat acne, however for more severe acne, stronger retinoids, such as isotretinoin, which requires a prescription, may be required.
The Rules of Retinol
- Retinols should only be used at night - they are readily inactivated by sunlight and can make the skin susceptible to sun damage.
- Make sure your face is dry before applying - otherwise penetration can be too deep and be more irritating.
- Use sparingly - More is not always better! A pea-size amount will cover the entire face, it should blended very thinly over the area.
- Ease into it - begin with lower concentrations, or a gentler retinoid, and slowly increase as tolerated by your own skin.
- Don't combine with Vitamin C, glycolic acid or benzoyl peroxide without specialist advice.
- Persevere - retinols take time to work and can initially cause redness and irritation! It can take up to 12 weeks before seeing desired results.
- Do not use retinoids if you are pregnant or breastfeeding!
Although, retinoids are Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approved, it does not mean that they are free from side effects. Many people commonly experience dry and irritated skin, especially when introducing a new product, however, they may also experience redness, itchiness, and peeling skin. To lessen these side effects, it is recommended to use your retinoid every other night, and work up to using it nightly, to ensure that the skin has time to adjust to this new product.
Sun exposure may worsen the drying and irritating effects of retinoids, and it can increase the appearance of age spots, wrinkles and fine lines – the same effects that retinoids can reduce the appearance of. Retinoid use can make the skin more sensitive to the sun, and so it is always recommended to use retinoids at night, always apply sun protection throughout the day and to wear protective clothing.
Side-effects experienced in up to 10% of people:
- Acne flare up
- Eczema reaction
- Discolouration of the skin
- Photosensitivity to light
- Blistering
- Stinging
- Swelling
Our Recommendations
OBAGI Retinol 1.0 cream is a minimally-irritating product, with a high-concentration retinol formula that minimises the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also improves complexion and combats the appearance of uneven skin texture for clearer-looking skin. Best of all it has an additional ingredient that includes the well-researched antioxidants Vitamin C and E which provides the skin with many benefits.
Formulated with the highest concentration of 1.0% pure retinol, this night cream is enhanced with the latest stabilisation and delivery technologies to ensure a steady, even release of the maximum available concentration. Retinol 1% is proven to diminish the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and skin discoloration while minimising breakouts and the appearance of pores.
What we love about this range is that it is a perfect introduction to Vitamin A products, with its easy step-up system. You start with an AVST 1, which has the lowest strength vitamin A in the range, and let your skin become gently acclimatised to the retinol. The range is 1-5 escalating in strength.
Note: Please always start on a low dose vitamin A to begin with and let your skin build up a tolerance to it. Most ranges will have a 0.3 or a 0.5 strength to begin with.
Our Recommendations
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